Osman Gani

Jamdani saree is an integral part of the history, tradition, folk and glorious culture of Bangladesh. This saree is a very favorite saree for all Bengali women at home and abroad. On the one hand, this saree is loved by women, and on the other hand, this saree has a huge role in introducing Bangladesh to the world. Now, foreigners have started using this saree after seeing Bengali women abroad. The demand for this saree is increasing day by day abroad. Jamdani saree, made with silk, yarn, lace and the skillful touch of the artist's hands, is very favorite of Bengali women as the heir to the ancient muslin cloth. Jamdani has already been registered as the first Geographical Indication (GI) product of Bangladesh. However, Jamdani artisans complain that this promising product is suffering due to lack of government support, increase in the price of raw materials and accessories, crisis in creating a market for domestic fabrics, inability to keep pace with new technology machine-driven looms, marketing failure, lack of up-to-date training and capital shortage. Experts believe that it is possible to earn a large amount of foreign currency by diversifying the fashion and design of Jamdani and woven sarees. According to them, to increase exports and sales, the price of Jamdani sarees should be kept within the reach of the general public and research should be conducted at the expert level with emphasis on the colors and designs of this traditional saree. The popularity and demand of Jamdani, which is widely recognized, has increased a lot due to its versatile uses, reputation and tradition in the international market. Exports are more than ever before. Bengalis are spread all over the world. The demand for Bangladeshi Jamdani is increasing day by day due to its quality, colors and colorful designs. Jamdani sarees are especially popular among expatriate Bengali women. If it gets state sponsorship, this product can play a role in maintaining our import-export balance with India, along with bringing in more foreign exchange. Those concerned believe that to increase exports and sales, the price of Jamdani sarees should be kept within the reach of the common man and research should be conducted at the expert level with emphasis on the color and design of this traditional saree.

Jamdani is a type of saree made of cotton. Jamdani sarees are very familiar to Bengali women as a successor to the ancient fine muslin cloth. Jamdani cloth is made by designing on muslin. The word 'Jamdani' comes from the Persian language. Jam means flower and vase is a container. Jamdani sarees carry such a beautiful meaning. Jamdani can be traced back to the third century AD. 'He did not come to the house, he kept coming and going, he wore a Dhakai saree, his forehead was covered with a Siddur', the Dhakai saree worn by the young man, a clerk in the office, who did not get it, is a longing of all Bengalis. Jamdani is basically a type of the historically famous Dhakai saree muslin. Jamdani is a special traditional folk art of Dhaka district. The name of Jamdani art is associated with an important part of the history and heritage of Bangladesh.

Jamdani weaving, which is the pride of Bangladesh and is spread throughout our tradition, is still unique in popularity today as a holder of the richness within this industry. Jamdani, which settled in the fashion tradition as a complement to muslin, has gradually become a garment of nobility along with tradition, thanks to the affection and skillful skills of the weavers of Bengal. Jamdani was registered as the first Geographical Indication (GI) product of Bangladesh on November 17 last year. Following the application of BSCIC, the Department of Patents, Designs and Trademarks (DPDT) under the Ministry of Industries granted this registration to Jamdani. In this context, the Industries Minister said that Jamdani is one of the many well-known products of Bangladesh in the world. This is the fifth version of the traditional Bengali product muslin. By registering it as a GI product, Bangladesh is on the path to protecting its domestic heritage.

It has taken a step forward. But the sad thing is, the history of Jamdani is as opaque and

Unclear. According to Bengali tradition, the history of Bengalis regarding this saree is silent. To know the information about Jamdani, one has to rely on isolated descriptions of foreign researchers and tourists and locally originated stories, and the vague memories of old weavers. There are also different theories about the name of Jamdani. History shows that in the first century BC, fine fabrics like muslin were exported from Bengal to Europe through the Sonargaon port. However, the word muslin probably originated from the city of Mosul in Iraq. And the word Jamdani comes from Persia.

After Dhakai Muslin, the traditional Jamdani saree of Dhaka was famous. The acceptance of Jamdani saree is universally recognized all over the world. It is made exclusively from Dhaka's own raw materials and is a creation of the basic artistic sense and meditation concept of Dhaka's weavers. It has not been possible for weavers from any other country in the world to make this saree. This is because the industry that has been created through mutual cooperation in the family circle is not found anywhere else. Moreover, the steam created from the cold water is suitable for the preparation of yarn and weaving of cloth. Since ancient times, this type of cloth has been made

The old Sonargaon region along the banks of the Shitalakshya River was the center of extensive production. Today, this industry is home to about 155 villages in Rupganj, Sonargaon and Siddhirganj. In ancient times, only Muslim craftsmen were particularly skilled in Jamdani weaving. Even today, people from the Muslim community are involved in the skill of this industry.

The famous traveler Ibn Battuta, in his travelogue written in the 14th century, praised the textile industry of Sonargaon and mentioned muslin and Jamdani. Jamdani was famous for its diverse designs. Each design had different names. Pannahazar, Butidar, Dubalijal, Versa, Jhalor, Mayurpakha, Kalmilta, Puilta, Kaddhapar, Kachupata, Anguralata, Prajapati, Shaplaphul, Juibuti, Chandrapar, Hansbalaka, Shabnam, Jhumka, Jawaphul - these were the various names of these designs. As a weaving art with different geometric characteristics, Jamdani motif became popular to maintain the continuity of oriental weaving art. In this motif, the reflection of the design can be easily created in the shadow of the cloth.

Many of the famous and unforgettable designs and weaves of Jamdani sarees are now almost extinct. New artisans do not know how to weave most of the designs. Karla pair, kanka, karla, inch and madan paar are mostly used in the borders of current Jamdani sarees. Sandesh, amritti, jasmine, sidar, rose flower and chirabuti designs are currently used on the body of the saree. Jamdani weavers say that they are currently getting a salary of 1500 taka per week or 5 to 7 thousand taka per month. This is not enough to support their families. The looms that are currently in existence are also on the verge of closure. Md. Hasan, the owner of the Jamdani loom factory in Noapara, who has been involved in this business for 30 years,

According to him, once upon a time, I used to make Jamdani sarees on more than 10 looms of my own. Currently, there is only 1 loom. Due to the lack of weavers, it is not going well. My wife and I are trying to keep this loom running somehow. According to Jamdani saree trader Md. Mustafa, Dhakai Jamdani sarees are not able to survive in the competition with Indian fake sarees. Because, Indian Jamdani sarees are not recognized properly by buyers. Also, the price is cheaper because they are made of polyester yarn. Whereas Dhakai sarees are more expensive because they are made of silk yarn. In addition, due to lack of capital, high price of yarn, and low wages of weavers, many are leaving this industry and joining other professions. As a result, the number of weavers is decreasing day by day. If the government had taken the initiative to stop Indian Jamdani sarees from coming to Dhaka, this industry would have been saved from destruction.

According to Anisuzzaman Khokon, the former president of Noapara Jamdani Industrial City, many people have sold their looms because they cannot survive in this profession. If the government gives easy loans to weavers, the Jamdani artisans will revive again. The tradition of Jamdani sarees will return. It will be possible to earn a huge amount of money by exporting Jamdani at home and abroad. It has been found that many weavers are forced to sell their last remaining looms due to capital crisis. The traditional Baburhat, Gauchia Hat in the northern region, Karatia, Bajitpur, Ballarampurhat in Tangail, Enayetpur Cloth Hat in Sirajganj, Sohagpur Cloth Hat, Ataukula Hat in Pabna, Poradaha Hat in Kushtia, Kumarkhali Hat and other major cloth markets in the country have come to almost zero. A normal cloth market in Shahjadpur used to sell and buy textiles worth at least Tk 200-350 crore. Now, only Tk 30-40 crore worth of goods are being sold.

The famous husband Elam Dandiser said, 'Bangladesh may be one of the poorest countries in the world, but from the perspective of folk culture, I can say that it is certainly one of the richest countries in the world.' Bibi Russell has been recognized as an international model through this weaving industry. There is no comparison to weaving products in the list of export products. Domestic weaving sarees are also more durable. Although our weaving products are appreciated as branded products all over the world, this industry is in danger today due to our limitless negligence. The market has become flooded with low-quality foreign clothing. A group is taking the domestic weaving industry to the brink of destruction with the aim of creating a market for low-quality clothing from neighboring countries. The government must take effective initiatives now to bring the weaving industry back to its previous position in the world market. For this, the government should ban the import of weaving textile products. If imports are banned, the domestic weaving industry will survive. Workers will be saved. In the interest of our country and the people of the country, we must refrain from importing foreign fake Jamdani sarees. Our country's cloth importers should reduce the import of foreign cloth and encourage the countrymen to sell domestic products. It cannot be the work of any good and conscientious person to destroy the country's weaving industry by destroying our country's resources by importing fake cloth from abroad (even through government initiatives, we must keep a vigilant eye on foreign Narul cloth so that it does not enter our country's market). The government should provide low-interest loans to weavers involved in the Jamdani industry. So that the weavers can sustain this glorious Jamdani industry of our country. Not only will the weavers benefit from this, if this industry can be sustained, on the one hand, unemployment in our country will decrease, and on the other hand, our national economy will be strengthened by exporting the products made in this industry abroad.

The author  is writer, journalist and columnist. He can be reached at email postnews25@gmail.com